Cheats For Rise Of Nations

From Iran to Persia and back

Evidently realising the potential of the country and, of course, the economic benefits, the authorities want to boost that number and they are very ambitious, planning to attract 20 million visitors annually by 2015. Quite a feat but they are working very hard on it. Having been there, I cannot see why they should fail, provided nothing untoward happens in the region that may scare visitors away. That was what I asked myself too when the invitation to visit the country ended up on my desk. In a way, I was an accidental tourist. It seems the invite from the Iranian Embassy in Rome, which also covers Malta, was made to somebody else but the person was unable to go. It was then channelled to me and, I have to admit, I immediately decided to take it up. Accompanied by photographer Matthew Mirabelli, we left Malta on a Friday morning flight en route to Rome via Reggio Calabria. On the plane were Maltese pilgrims on their way to the Eternal City to attend the beatification ceremony of John Paul II. His smiling face could be seen on huge billboards at Fiumicino. A few hours later and much further east, it was the image of Ayatollah Khomeini that was so conspicuous in most locations. As we approached Tehran, I could notice women on board wearing headscarves, which ladies must wear in Iran. We landed at Imam Khomeini International Airport early on a Saturday morning (Iran is two and a half hours ahead) and at the airport we met a small group of Italian journalists, including a veteran from L’Espresso and a Rai crew, who had arrived on an Alitalia flight from Rome via Ankara. Having been channelled through a lounge marked CIP, for commercially important persons, passport clearance and luggage reclaim was handled by Iranian officials who looked more western than most of us in the group. After a 40-minute drive, we were settled at the Laleh Hotel where we could rest for a couple of hours before we had breakfast and then started a tour of the city. One thing that stood out right from the moment I set foot on the streets of Iran right though my journey there was the ubiquitous Paykan cars, reminiscent of the Hillman Hunter and which one of our hosts described as the poor man’s car. In different shades of colour and in all sort of condition it can be spotted hurtling down a road, cruising at snail’s pace or pushing its way between a fully-loaded coach and a heavy truck as they vie for an opening while negotiating a roundabout.

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